Bangers is one of Davy’s City wine bars, halfway between Liverpool Street and Moorgate on the corner of Wilson and Eldon Streets. Comfort food is the order of the day, so if you are looking for some winter warmers, stop right here and tuck in.
Davy’s have an enviable and long-standing reputation as experienced wine and food purveyors since 1870. They have fifteen wine bars around London and they are always better than the average because their long experience counts for much. Bangers is fairly typical of the chain although its clientele is obviously mainly City workers. Bangers occupies the basement premises of an office block, with a warren of underground passages leading to and from separate rooms and eating areas, all of which makes it eminently suitable for party bookings for which there are special menus. Wine tastings and other special events and promotions are also regular features.
It’s always a fairly busy place at lunchtime and evening, so there is generally a buzz about the place. Its underground situation makes it a talking point and being a fairly large place, you can easily find a hideaway if you prefer a quiet meal away from the other drinkers and diners. The welcome seems to be part of the building itself, with its traditional decor making it a place where it is easy to relax.
There are two menus: the Express Bar menu is for those in a hurry who may not want to commit to a full meal. Some of those dishes also appear on the menu for the Grill Room with the addition of cold sandwiches (such as ham, chicken and bacon, smoked salmon and crayfish and wild rocket), plus hot sandwiches (Cumberland sausage, turkey, bacon and cheese and rib eye steak) on ciabatta bread, and sharers, a tortilla plate or a Mediterranean plate for two.
In the Grill Room it’s strictly good old fashioned British comfort food – the rib eye steak, turkey escalope, smoked haddock fishcakes, Irish organic salmon, smoked chicken Caesar salad and a vegetarian special. For a starter the spicy parsnip soup with creme fraiche and Parmesan biscuit is a delicious hot broth for a cold day. The pheasant pate is rich, chunky and rough and comes with a very fine beetroot relish and baby figs in rum syrup, a really tasty combination of flavours.
The hand-carved Alderton ham is a popular dish. It hails from Nottinghamshire and is steamed and then baked on the bone with a marmalade relish. It is served here as thick, juicy slices of the meat, accompanied by a good and tangy homemade piccalilli relish, a mixed salad and hot buttered potatoes. The signature house dish has to be bangers and mash. Two very meaty Cumberland sausages are served with traditional mashed potatoes and rich onion gravy. This is comfort food at its British best.
When treacle tart is on the menu there’s no question about it, it just has to be ordered. With clotted cream the sticky confection is much appreciated. The Welsh rarebit is a rare find for a savoury end to the meal: delicious hot cheese with mustard spread on toast and with a dash of Worcestershire sauce. Simple excellence on a plate.
Bangers has a good stock of, well, everything. Start with a Sherry or Madeira and finish with a dark or white Port. In between, the wine list offers a full range of bottles from all over the world and many are Davy’s own-label wines. Prices are from £3.85 a glass and £14.35 a bottle rising to over £45 for a very fine Medoc. All the usual beers, spirits and soft drinks are available.
The Last Word
For about £20 a head you can eat royally at Bangers, for less if you order at the bar. Don’t expect too much in the way of refinement: Bangers is a place for good and hearty fare.