One of three Coco Momos in London town, this particular incarnation sits pretty on leafy Marylebone High Street, serving uncomplicated, good value dishes and some of the best Bloody Marys in town.
It’s got a bit of scaffolding at the moment, but don’t let that put you off: it’s a pleasant little spot that doesn’t look out of place on a road playing host to some pretty fancy names, including Agnes B and Paul Smith. As with the other Coco Momo venues they’ve taken an old boozer and kitted it out well, using the impressive architecture of the original building as a pretty big part of the design aesthetic. Throw in some big sofas, a Baroque, gilded mirror or two, a few chairs pinned to the walls and a bit of flora and you’re pretty much there.
This is a busy part of town, and Coco Momo does well in attracting a decent number of those passing through. Tables are full at lunchtimes and evenings see a hefty after work crowd grabbing a beer or two. Staff are one of the venue’s genuine assets – they’re friendly, know the menu well and keep things ticking over very nicely indeed.
A short breakfast menu (the Full English is pretty good) leads into a more comprehensive lunch menu featuring a varied mix of dishes, from burgers and steak to salads, sandwiches and butternut squash lasagne. On evenings, it’s small plates, sharing boards and a few burgers, so if you want a real taste of what’s on offer, lunchtimes are your best bet.
Those burgers are pretty good, with the house version (£11.95) featuring a hefty patty, smoked cheddar cheese, smoky bacon, avocado and a tangy BBQ sauce. The French fries on the side are good, too. Fish fingers (the shape suggests goujons, to be honest, unless it’s a particularly mangled claw) served with hand cut chips and tartare sauce is a little steep at £10.50, given there’s no greenery. A huge chicken and chorizo salad (£10) offers much better value, with generous amounts of sausage and fowl served with chickpeas (too many, mind) tomato, red onion, peppers, golden raisins, leaves and a scattering of rosemary and mint.
Desserts (all £5.50) are good. A Belgian waffle with (very lovely) honeycomb ice cream and toffee sauce is every bit as rich and sickening as it should be, and a sticky toffee pudding similarly so, with a light and fluffy sponge weighted down nicely by toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Cocktails (or ‘coco-tails’, almost confusingly) prove pretty popular. An Angel Delight (£7.50) is a sweet mix of vanilla vodka, butterscotch Schnapps and vanilla sugar topped with lemonade that just about stays the right side of saccharine. The Bloody Mary (£7.50) is really excellent though, with loads of heat, a generous kick of alcohol, lots of horseradish and plenty of depth. Wines are crowd-pleasers, so expect plenty of nicely priced Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays (splash out a little more - £24 - on a Sept Salsons Viognier and be rewarded), but the beers show a little more imagination, with Camden Hells and Meantime London Lager on tap, and Goose Island IPA and BrewDog by the bottle, among others. Coffee is good and bitey.
The Last Word
A very reasonable spot whose sheer accessibility ensures it remains popular. A good shout if you’re in the area.