A good, inexpensive Japanese restaurant hidden around the back of M&S at Liverpool Street, this is somewhere well worth seeking out, not least for the sushi. Just don’t go expecting beautiful views.
It’s about as hidden as is possible, tucked away in a unit upstairs at Liverpool Street station, with some spectacularly dreary views of platform one. And that’s a real shame as the actual interior is pretty sleek – they brought over Kaneshiro Yusaka over from Japan to do the design. He’s one of Japan’s leading restaurant designers, apparently. Anyway, it does look good, with a large central bar offering the conveyor belt option, a couple of tables through to the back, and some great larger tables set in what look like huge swings, complete with curved panels of wood that offer some very enticing intimacy. It’s all decked out in dark woods and other moody colours that make it all feel very atmospheric and about as far away from the glare of the station as is possible to get.
Moshi Moshi actually has a pretty good reputation amongst sushi lovers, so it can get busy. And it must rely on this reputation as the only people that are likely to stumble across it are those that use one particular, tiny entrance right at one end of Liverpool Street. There are a fair few diners of Asian appearance, which is apparently a good sign, but also quite a few young professionals who probably know a thing or two about where to get the best sushi in town.
It’s a pretty extensive menu, with plenty of authentic Japanese options, be they hot or cold, cooked or uncooked. The soft-shell crab tempura (£7.70) is pretty good (with an admirable lightness of touch with the tempura), as are the gyoza dumplings (£3), the chicken yakitori (£3.50) and the rib-eye teriyaki (£12.50), but it’s the sushi most people come here for, and with good reason.
There’s plenty of ways to order, with individual hand rolls available (£2.30-£3.70), as well as a whole host of platters and sets. The omikase sashimi set (£14) is a good way to get a good range of sashimi, with slices of Loch Duart salmon and yellow fin tuna served with two more of the best catch from the day. The quality is excellent, with big flavours coming from well-handled and well-sourced fish. The Fitzroy (£14.50) offers a little more variety, with more excellent sashimi served alongside maki and nigiri, of which the crab and avocado maki and tempura maki are particular highlights. Everything comes with a decent miso soup as well as a bowl of steaming rice, so it’s actually very filling, and pretty good value.
It’s unlikely to break too many boundaries with its wine selection, but it’s adequate enough – a Trimbach Reisling (£35), a Sauvignon Blanc (£28.50) and a Colombard (£18) all perfectly good bedfellows for the fish. There are a few reds too, a good range of sake and a couple of Asahis, and plenty of teas and soft drinks for those looking to keep things totally tee.
The Last Word
A good spot to eat in Liverpool Street station? A very pleasant surprise. Definitely worth hunting out, especially if you’re looking for sushi.