The Crabtree is a wonderful old Victorian building - one of the oldest in the area in existence long before the surrounding houses.
It sits on the edge of the river away from roads, and indeed away from the crowds that throng on the towpath north of the bridge.
It faces due west into the setting sun, overlooking the river and wetland centre.
However, it has had a long history of dismal food. And this has been enough to put a lot of people off it and is re-enforced by previous reviews.
Previous owners have put much effort into buying food frozen and wholesale, churning out the same rubbish as every other underwhelming pub.
Finally, after a long wait, things have changed and are really looking up. New owners have a number of similar pubs around town and come with pedigree.
They spent 16 days ripping out the old rubbish, sanitising the kitchen, decking the river-front terrace and garden, where they created an outdoor kitchen, and made good use of the shelter under the veranda - it can get nippy with a westerly wind, before reopening last weekend.
The interior is more focused towards eating, creating a relaxed restaurant feel, balanced with ample areas to sit, drink and chat.
And, fresh food! I came with some discerning (gastronomically spoilt) friends and concluded that The Crabtree finally passed muster.
Belly port was crisp as caramel on top but beautifully tender within. Smoked eel was luxuriously buttery. Irish steak done to perfection.
The menu isn't huge but it's imaginative, fresh and changes according to what is in the market that day.
I believe (second hand info) that the chef has Smiths of Smithfield on his CV.Booze is booze, but it does have a respectable wine list, and they switch the beers around regularly. And you don't have to wait forever to be served.
If you have been put off The Crabtree in the past, I'm not surpr